At low tide on a foggy afternoon in Cadiz, a fisherman walks past stranded boats on the beach of La Caleta. Cadiz, the oldest city in Europe, was founded in 1104 B.C. by Phoenician sailors. It sits on the end of a bulbous peninsula of land that juts out into the Atlantic to form one of the best Continue Reading →
In the Mercado de Bailén, in Malaga, a fishmonger gave me the lowdown. If I wanted to see the boats unloading fish, I had to go to Caleta de Velez. In Malaga, only a few boats come in every day. The port of Malaga is too expensive, he told me, so the fishermen go to Caleta, only a short drive up the coast.
By the time I got there, many of the boats were already tied up to the dock and more were coming in; big boats, motors chugging in a throaty diesel rumble as they shifted into reverse, gunned it for a second or two, and glided gently up to the dock with unerring precision. Continue Reading →